How to Overhaul Wheel Bearings
Overhaul a hub, replace and grease the wheel bearings, and adjust the cones.
This tutorial will demonstrate how to grease your wheel bearings. For this job you’ll need some rags, waterproof grease, and a 17mm open-end wrench. You’ll also need a 13mm cone wrench for a front hub, and a 15mm cone wrench for a rear hub. When overhauling a hub, you should always replace the ball bearings. Most front hubs need 10 3/16″ bearings per side, while rear hubs usually need 9 1/4″ bearings.
Place the wheel on its side and slide a cone wrench onto the cone flats, and then loosen the left, or non-drive side locknut by turning it counter-clockwise against the cone wrench. Completely un-thread and remove the cone and locknut, and then slide the axle out from the right side of the hub.
Clean Hub Parts
Clean all of the old grease off of the axle and cones and remove all of the bearings from both sides, making sure to count how many you take out. Then clean the inside of the hub and carefully inspect both the cones and the inner bearing races. If there is any damage such as pitting then the cone and/or hub should be replaced.
Grease Hub and Bearings
Apply a generous layer of grease to both of the hub’s bearing races. Then carefully insert all of the new bearings by pushing them down in the grease. When all of the bearings are installed, there should be about half a bearing space left. Cover all of the bearings with a layer of grease and lightly grease the axle threads.
Once the bearings are installed on both sides, carefully slide the axle into hub, making sure the bearings stay in place. Thread the left side cone, washer (if any) and locknut all the way on finger tight.
Adjust Cone and Locknut
Now lay the wheel back on its side and place the cone wrench on the cone. Tighten the locknut against the cone and check to make sure there is no play in the hub, and that the wheel spins freely. You may have to loosen the locknut and repeat the procedure many times before it is correct. Quick release mechanisms tighten the cones slightly, so if you have a quick release axle, you’ll have to leave a slight bit of play in the hub.
Re-install any seals and then put the wheel back on your bike. Finally, check the adjustment again by moving the wheel side to side at the rim. Again, there shouldn’t be play in the wheel, and it should spin smoothly.
- Jim Langley: Overhauling hubs
- Park Tool: Hub Overhaul and Adjustment
- Sheldon Brown: Overhauling & Repacking Hubs
- Bicycle Torque Specifications
- Park Tool SCW-SET.3 Cone Wrench Set
- Park Tool Wrench Combo Set
- Super Lube White Grease Tube
- Finish Line Grease Gun
- Super Lube White Grease Canister
- Park Tool CB-4 Bio ChainBrite
Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum
I just registered here to ask for help. I have this bike; https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=91408 Which I rescued from the trash. I know how to do the basics, like changing a tube or tire, but I don't have a lot of experience replacing parts, or doing much bike maintenance in general. To be honest, I'm not a hardcore cyclist. To me, the bike is mostly just a way to get pla...Read more
So I read about Shimano filing a patent for bicycle gearbox both for MTB and road bikes. What are your thoughts about it? They must be serious about it and definitely have the R&D capacity compared to the existing bicycle gearbox manufacturers. Looks like an ebike motor. I've always been (and probably will be) a derailleur boy though. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/ac/c6/46/60b59...Read more
Has anyone had any luck with homemade chain oil? im looking for some recipes, a lot include motor oil and mineral spirits any good?...Read more
There is a product used in major tool rooms I have been in as an engineer for 34 years. It is called Kroil. I think you would have to get it off the web though, but believe me it is the BEST I have seen..... Penetrating-Lubricating Oils Loosens Frozen Metal Parts! ... Nothing Works Like Kroil Kroil - An industry proven penetrating oil that has no equal. Used by 480 of the Fortune 500 companies! ...Read more
Hi, got a fresh new KMC chain back in August for urban commuter bike. Have lubed it twice during this time, and weekly I cover around 30 miles on the bicycle. Measured chain wear yesterday ... it's worn already until the 0,75 mark. Isn't this too early for a chain to be done??...Read more
I've read other threads and lots of info online, and I'm still stuck. My son is unable to shift the gears on his new 6-gear bike. We tried adjusting the derailer to release some tension and tinkered with adjustments here and there, and nothing seems to be working. Is there anything that we can do? I really want him to be able to shift his own gears. Going uphill today we had to stop several t...Read more
In the spring I installed a new Fenix 26 x 1.90/2.125 inner tube on my year old mountain bike front wheel. It has been fine all summer until my last ride this fall. The following day after my ride both front and rear tires were flat. I thought that they might have lost air due to the cooler temperatures. But that was not the case. The tubes had failed. The tubes were inflated to the recommended 50...Read more
Had an accident on the way home today. Luckily no one got hurt except for my bike. Front wheel now has one broken spoke. Can I still save it somehow? Or do I need to get a new spoke and are they sold one by one just like that? Or better to visit local bike repair? broken-spoke.jpeg (Size: 162.16 KB / Downloads: 60) ...Read more
Hi. I don't get why would you choose nexus hub over the classic derailleur shifters? Isn't it much pain when the hub brakes? Or am I just too used to the derailleurs and shifting .. #justasking...Read more
Hello, bike riders! Our community member Gabriel has shared his unpleasant experience with Deore T610 brake levers: "After 2 years of very limited use ... I'm still trying to understand why is there so many holes in such a critical place" Can anyone help by explaining the reasoning for such lever design and what might be the cause of the particular break (material quality, usage, design flaw). ...Read more
Hello! I was forwarded here from from Reddit, where I asked around about this dent I caused. So long story short, I dropped this frame by accident on a sharp corner and it caused a smallish dent. I've been told that this is no concern on a steel frame, but I'd like to be 100% certain, if possible. Edit: added the picture... IMG_05102019_215231_(1080_x_1080_pixel).jpg (Size: 181.86 ...Read more
Ciao. I have been looking at road bikes and most of them (unlike my Giordano) have double butted frame. Can anyone explain what are the advantages or characteristics of such bicycle frame? Like an elderly would explain it to a child ...Read more
Hi All, Got a new Trek MTB and attempted to change the pedals. Unscrew the drive side pedal easily by turning anti-clockwise; all good there. This is where my noob mistake happen... Did the same by turning the left side pedal the same way (anti-clockwise) and over crank it such that the bolt is now just spinning clockwise and anti-clockwise without coming off. It's not loose.. just spinning in ...Read more
The bike, new, was $199 from an Amazon dealer, and it came with a load of great reviews and very few negative ones. That should be a warning to anyone looking for a new bike; the shills are out there. If anyone buys one with the idea of putting it together and going for a ride, they would be disappointed. Walmart bikes are better. Seriously! I knew that it would need some work because you do...Read more
Years ago, oil cans had long spouts. Even the throw away cans had long spouts, but makers started putting little nubby spouts on the cans which makes it hard to get into some places such as my bike derailleurs. To oil those I have to pour oil onto a screwdriver blade and let it run down. The cans of '3 in 1' oil I used as a kid, on my bike, had a long spout. So after digging around I found cans w...Read more