How to Box Up Your Bike for Shipping
Learn how to safely package your bike in a cardboard box.
- How to Remove Pedals
- How to Remove and Install Your Wheels
- How to Securely Fasten Zip Ties
- How to Re-assemble Your Bicycle
Today we’ll learn how to package your bike in a box for shipping.
What You’ll Need
For this job you’ll need a bike box. Your local bike shop should have one, but it’s a good idea to call ahead with the size of your bike. They should also have some extra fork and axle protectors. Most decent bike shops won’t charge for these materials.
You will also need: packing material such as cardboard, pipe insulation, bubble wrap etc., string or zip ties to fasten padding materials, 4, 5 and 6mm allen wrenches, a 15mm pedal wrench and a 15mm open end wrench if your bike has nutted axles. If you have a bike repair stand, it will make this job a lot easier, but is not necessary.
First you’ll want to deflate your tires. You don’t have to deflate them completely but just enough so they are soft. This prevents any damage that could occur with changes in air pressure associated with air travel.
Now remove your pedals. Loosen the right pedal by turning counter-clockwise. The left pedal is a reverse thread, so you’ll have to turn it clockwise to loosen it. See the tutorial titled “How to Replace Your Pedals” for more tips on removing and installing pedals.
If you have caliper brakes, disconnect your front brake cable and remove the front wheel. For more tips on wheel removal see the tutorial titled “How to Remove and Install Your Wheels“.
Front Quick Release
If your wheels have quick release axles, remove the quick release skewer, and thread the end back on in order to keep it together. Press the axle protectors into each side of the front axle. Slide the fork protector up into the fork drop-outs.
Now loosen your seat post clamp and pull the seat and post up and out of the frame.
Using the cardboard or bubble wrap, wrap the entire bike frame, crank arms and ends of the rear axle. Use zip-ties, string or tape to hold these in place.
If you have a threadless headset, loosen and remove the top cap of the stem, and then loosen each individual side bolt. Now you can slide the stem up and off the forks steerer tube. Be careful to hold the fork in place so the headset bearings stay in place. Tighten a zip tie around the steerer tube just above the headset, and then thread the top cap back in place and slightly tighten it just enough to keep it in place.
If you have an older quill type stem, loosen the top bolt about a centimeter and then give it a light tap with a hammer to loosen the quill. Now you can pull the stem up and out of the steerer tube.
Packing the Box
Rest the bike on the ground and tie the bike wheel onto the left side of the frame, making sure the axle is not touching any part of the frame. Also make sure your left crank arm is carefully tucked into the wheel spokes so that it does not touch the wheel rim.
Rotate the forks 180 degrees so they are facing backwards. Carefully tuck the handlebars into the right side of the frame. You may need to twist them to ensure the package maintains as low of a profile as possible. Fasten them in place with string or zip ties. Use cardboard or padding as needed to ensure no part of the bars or stem are touching the frame or wheels.
Now lift the bike and slide it into the box.
Wrap your seat and seat post for protection and fasten them to the rear wheel so they don’t rattle around the box.
Now place your pedals, quick release, and any other spare parts in a bag or small box and slide it down just behind the fork.
If you have extra materials such as sleeping bags or clothing you can stuff these into the remaining spaces for extra protection.
Now you’re ready to close your box and secure it with packing tape on both the top and bottom. Make sure any holes in the box are also sealed.
- Park Tool HXS-1.2 Hex Wrench Set
- Park Tool Wrench Combo Set
- Park Tool SK-3 Starter Mechanic Tool Kit
- Park Tool PK-3 Professional Tool Kit
- Park Tool PCS-9 Repair Stand
- Park Tool PCS-4 Repair Stand
Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum
I have a brand new 2020 Pake Rum Runner track frame (CrMo), which is supposed to have the standard 120mm rear spacing. It arrived with spacing closer to 100mm, and I can't get the rear wheel in. There is a dent on the inside of the drive side chain stay that causes the dropout to angle inward. I just bought a bunch of track parts from various sources for this specific bike, and I'd really prefer...Read more
Here is an old Urich repair tool; patent date 1919. I picked it up merely as an oddity and had to research as to how it functioned. Essentially similar to the plug repair kit tools used for auto tires nowadays. Made for natural rubber tires, and using rubber bands with a vulcanizing agent. I assume it would still work with newer tires using the proper plug material and glue. I doubt it would be us...Read more
It's making a light squeaking noise when I pedal. Not sure i want to take that apart, but maybe I should. It does not have excessive free play. it is NOT the pedals. It just started a few weeks ago, but maybe I could not hear it previously. This bike is OLD. 1950s or 60s. When I found it in 2013 it was laying in someone's backyard missing wheels and seat. Handle bars are slightly too low, but can...Read more
Hi all, I'm new to the forums here, so sorry for any etiquette mistakes. I recently bought a new belt drive bike and after getting it built, I noticed that the frame split was quite rusty. I was told it was just surface rust and to just sand it and paint it with the provided touch up paint. I decided to get inside there and take a look and found the entire surface to be quite rusty. I sent pho...Read more
I have bought Brooks B17 Imperial for my Fuji touring bike and would like to break in before taking it on a trip. Have read recommendations to reach 1000 km to make it fully fit. Right now it is winter in Norway, so I do cycle home using my road bike on Tacx trainer. Would it make sense for me to put B17 on my road bike and try to break in inside? Or is it bad idea since touring bike has likely di...Read more
I am changing a 7 speed Schwinn to a single speed. It has a Falcon freewheel. I have the freewheel off of the bike and have removed the core by turning the Falcon ring clockwise. I want to also remove the cogs. There is a locking ring on the outside of the freewheel that needs to be removed. But I don't know if the locking ring turns counterclockwise or clockwise and what tools I need to rem...Read more
Hey guys, I just wanted to point out the variance in the Stone Oval chainrings. They have two versions and they are particular to certain cranks. The BCD 96X is particular to Shimano M6000, M7000, M8000, M9000 M9020. The original BCD 96 is XTC820, M782, M612, M622, M672, M4000, M4050. Additionally, I have an FSA SL-K MODULAR 2X 392EVO MTB CRANKSET. The BCD 96X is not compatible with the spid...Read more
My friend in Romania sent me some pictures of MAVIC Cosmic carbon rims/wheelset he is selling; only $160!!! s-l1600 (20).jpg (Size: 99.78 KB / Downloads: 120) Best deal I've ever seen! Let's take a closer look: s-l1600 (21).jpg (Size: 63.54 KB / Downloads: 116) s-l1600 (22).jpg (Size: 67.72 KB / Downloads: 116) I might be a hack, but I'm not...Read more
I need to replace the tires on my Specialized commuter bike- currently using 700x32; am I locked into tires of only this size? If not, what is the range of sizes I can choose from and still have them fit my rims?...Read more
Hi I want to replace the fork on my dads schwinn meridian. I’m looking for one with suspension. What size is the fork I should buy? I been looking on internet for the fork size but couldn’t find anything. Thanks in advance...Read more
I know someone who has a Schwinn Meridian adult tricycle. He said he has been unable to find much in the way of repair manuals or guidance for this model or trikes in general. I know some things are exactly the same as bicycles, but other things are different. He said all he could find was some assembly instructions. Just looking around on the forum I saw some info an pressing in new bearings and...Read more
I'm going to replace the bearings in my Zipp 182 hub (rear wheel). Both the SRAM website and this article (https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Hub_How-To_-_Zipp_182_3300.html) recommend against replacing the freehub body bearings, and that instead the whole freehub should just be replaced. I can only find one supplier and a replacement freehub costs more than I paid for the wheelset. The freehub bear...Read more
Weird clicking sound. I dont think it affects performance but its really anoying. It doesnt only happen in the beginning of the stroke but also once it settles into sag and i compress it further i can still hear it. My question is what could be the cause of this and also, will it be an expensive repair ? Thanks Here is a video of the clicking sound: https://imgur.com/a/GWxkq04...Read more
Hey guys, Recently bought a carbon bike that's quite old, noticed when I got it home this corrosion at the front deralliuer hanger. The frame itself is otherwise in great condition, including carbon forks which I have inspected. Is this a serious structural concern and should I be keeping this bike only on the indoor trainer? Thoughts? IMG20211114131221.jpg (Size: 62.01 KB / Dow...Read more
I'm looking for brifters that will be compatable with shimano grx 600 rear derailleur running shimano rd-rx812 11-42t 11 speed cassette that can operate mechanical disc brakes. I think the standard grx 600 brifters can only do hydraulic and I'm not keen to change the brakes. Perhaps 105 ST-5800 would do the job?...Read more