How to Box Up Your Bike for Shipping
Learn how to safely package your bike in a cardboard box.
- How to Remove Pedals
- How to Remove and Install Your Wheels
- How to Securely Fasten Zip Ties
- How to Re-assemble Your Bicycle
Today we’ll learn how to package your bike in a box for shipping.
What You’ll Need
For this job you’ll need a bike box. Your local bike shop should have one, but it’s a good idea to call ahead with the size of your bike. They should also have some extra fork and axle protectors. Most decent bike shops won’t charge for these materials.
You will also need: packing material such as cardboard, pipe insulation, bubble wrap etc., string or zip ties to fasten padding materials, 4, 5 and 6mm allen wrenches, a 15mm pedal wrench and a 15mm open end wrench if your bike has nutted axles. If you have a bike repair stand, it will make this job a lot easier, but is not necessary.
First you’ll want to deflate your tires. You don’t have to deflate them completely but just enough so they are soft. This prevents any damage that could occur with changes in air pressure associated with air travel.
Now remove your pedals. Loosen the right pedal by turning counter-clockwise. The left pedal is a reverse thread, so you’ll have to turn it clockwise to loosen it. See the tutorial titled “How to Replace Your Pedals” for more tips on removing and installing pedals.
If you have caliper brakes, disconnect your front brake cable and remove the front wheel. For more tips on wheel removal see the tutorial titled “How to Remove and Install Your Wheels“.
Front Quick Release
If your wheels have quick release axles, remove the quick release skewer, and thread the end back on in order to keep it together. Press the axle protectors into each side of the front axle. Slide the fork protector up into the fork drop-outs.
Now loosen your seat post clamp and pull the seat and post up and out of the frame.
Using the cardboard or bubble wrap, wrap the entire bike frame, crank arms and ends of the rear axle. Use zip-ties, string or tape to hold these in place.
If you have a threadless headset, loosen and remove the top cap of the stem, and then loosen each individual side bolt. Now you can slide the stem up and off the forks steerer tube. Be careful to hold the fork in place so the headset bearings stay in place. Tighten a zip tie around the steerer tube just above the headset, and then thread the top cap back in place and slightly tighten it just enough to keep it in place.
If you have an older quill type stem, loosen the top bolt about a centimeter and then give it a light tap with a hammer to loosen the quill. Now you can pull the stem up and out of the steerer tube.
Packing the Box
Rest the bike on the ground and tie the bike wheel onto the left side of the frame, making sure the axle is not touching any part of the frame. Also make sure your left crank arm is carefully tucked into the wheel spokes so that it does not touch the wheel rim.
Rotate the forks 180 degrees so they are facing backwards. Carefully tuck the handlebars into the right side of the frame. You may need to twist them to ensure the package maintains as low of a profile as possible. Fasten them in place with string or zip ties. Use cardboard or padding as needed to ensure no part of the bars or stem are touching the frame or wheels.
Now lift the bike and slide it into the box.
Wrap your seat and seat post for protection and fasten them to the rear wheel so they don’t rattle around the box.
Now place your pedals, quick release, and any other spare parts in a bag or small box and slide it down just behind the fork.
If you have extra materials such as sleeping bags or clothing you can stuff these into the remaining spaces for extra protection.
Now you’re ready to close your box and secure it with packing tape on both the top and bottom. Make sure any holes in the box are also sealed.
- Park Tool HXS-1.2 Hex Wrench Set
- Park Tool Wrench Combo Set
- Park Tool SK-3 Starter Mechanic Tool Kit
- Park Tool PK-3 Professional Tool Kit
- Park Tool PCS-9 Repair Stand
- Park Tool PCS-4 Repair Stand
Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum
Has anyone used this for pedals and/ or bottom bracket? Is it any good? I have sounds coming from pedals & BB. 20210528_174952.jpg (Size: 37.76 KB / Downloads: 34) ...Read more
I was hoping to buy a Centaur Power Torque crank for my GT Transeo 5.0 build. The shell is 73mm though and I got a message back from them yesterday stating none of their cranks will fit this size Bottom Bracket shell. Be aware—as some retailers list that it is 68/73mm. ezgif-3-3e4fd7bb285f.png (Size: 88.74 KB / Downloads: 8) ...Read more
Hi guys! I have a used 2007 Fuji Roubaix and it has been creaking/clicking when I'm putting a heavier load on it (could be high or low gear/any gear,) but as long as I'm pedalling really hard (straining on the pedals) it's pretty pronounced from the middle of the bike by the peddles, straight down under the seat. I think it's probably the bottom bracket that's dried out, because I had the peddles...Read more
Just wondering about the possibility of upgrading only the front brake of an Apex 1 mechanical grupo to hydraulic. I figure the front brake does way more and it would save a ton of $$. What I'm wondering about is if the left hydraulic brake lever/hood would have a different shape compared to the mechanical brake right shifter. Anyone know exactly how different they are and if it would f...Read more
Hey. I recently built a gravel bike out of an old mtb and it has been going amazing for the first 200km. Today out of nowhere I noticed It was pulling to my right when I was braking particularly with the front brake. It's a cantilever braking system and I am running 42mm tires on a 700c wheelset. It's a steel frame and forks look fine (at leaset true to the eye). I did tighten the headset befor...Read more
So i have bent my drive side crank on my Devinci Kobain 2020 with a SAMOX 170 B148 30T crankset and SAMOX PF BB92 bottom bracket. Will my BB be compatible with shimano crankset and can I replace only my driveside crankarm? I attatched some images that may help 20210612_221824.jpg (Size: 42.25 KB / Downloads: 5) 20210612_221737.jpg (Size: 45.18 KB / Downloads: 5) ...Read more
So I'm repairing a bike that's equipped with Shimano "Light Action" front derailleurs. It looks to me like the gear shifter has 10 settings from low to high. But the front derailed has 3 gears like a regular bike. Any position other than 1, 5 or 10 on the handle and it just rattles and skips. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance....Read more
Long story short. I have a road bike that suddenly makes noise when I put pressure on the pedals. Doesn't matter if I sit or stand or if I keep my hand on the wheel or not. It's there. And become worse when more pressure is applied. Man I tried everything from front to back. I greased the front wheel plus the quick release. The fork bearings I maintanced a month ago. but did it just for sake of...Read more
Recently bought a new CAAD 13 and found that sticky metal plate in packaging with spare parts/bolts. Wondered what it was, searched the internet. Found Shimano manuals which state it's mandatory to use this one if bolt is touching the frame of a bike. CAAD 13 has front derailleur mounting point welded to its frame so actually now support bolt is screwed into painted aluminum surface with glossy fi...Read more
Hello everybody! Im new to the forum and I think bikes are what make people happy . Anyways im currently converging my panasonic sport 1000 to 700c. Ask me why im just dumb haha, love the frame for some odd reason but eventually wanna get a new frame. Currently on the bike I have a full tiagra groupset (besides brakes, have longer arm brakes) the only problem i am having is with the holes for t...Read more
A friend who often stops over to go for a ride showed up tonight with another guy I hadn't seen in years who just bought a new bike. It was a full suspension Mongoose from Walmart. They asked me to adjust the derailleurs and brakes. It had V-brakes and the arms were stamped steel. They flexed so much I couldn't get them to skid the wheels without rubbing the out of true wheels. I finally found a c...Read more
So I'm finishing up a build on a 90's GT Outpost Trail. I took the set from 7 speed up to 10 speed. I got a Zee rear derailleur and a SLX iSpec B Shifter. So I get into tuning the derailleur, and at first I can't get it to shift down into the lowest gear. I realize the integrated hanger probably needs to be pulled out and realigned. So I take the wheel off, do some fine adjusting, and sure enou...Read more
Hello, I need to replace my speed shift, the old one got broke, but my bike is quite old, this type of shifter is't available anymore, but can't i simply order a speed shifter with the same gear posisions that also has a cable to the derailleur ? I'm dutch, I hope my english is understandable, Thanks in advance, Laurens...Read more
Does anyone know the thread pitch for FSA Modular cranks? I had an issue with a faulty installation using a Cannondale Spider. Despite using the same direct mount profile, the spider was not contoured to the crank properly. This caused the lockring to jump crossthreaded during the fastening process, and stripped out the lockring thread. Note this incompatibility for Cannondale spiders to preven...Read more
I have a Specialized Sirrus 6.0 on order. It comes with tubeless tires. I’m thinking of having my dealer pull the tubes during setup and put in the sealant. Other than not worrying about flats, are the tubeless setups lighter and what’s the negatives?...Read more