important: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.

How to Tension Wheel Spokes

Learn how to properly tension the spokes in a wheel.

In this video, we’ll learn how to properly tension the spokes in a wheel. Spoke tension is important to ensure your wheels are strong, reliable and long lasting.

Spokes that are too loose will continue to loosen and require constant wheel truing. Spokes that are too tight will cause damage to the rim, spoke nipples and hub flanges. All of the spokes in the wheel should have approximately the same average tension.

What You’ll Need

For this job you’ll need a wheel truing stand, an appropriately sized spoke wrench and a spoke tension meter. Park Tool makes a simple and affordable tension meter called the TM-1.

Measure Spoke Diameter

To find out what tension your spokes require, you’ll first need to measure the diameter of your spokes. The Park TM-1 tension meter comes with a handy spoke diameter gauge. Use this gauge to find the smallest slot your spokes fit into. If your spokes are butted and have multiple diameters, measure the smallest diameter on the length of the spoke.

Find Required Spoke Tension

Using the tension meter’s included conversion chart, find your spoke diameter and then locate the tension you want to use. Spoke tension requirements will vary depending on the type of rim you have. Lighter rims require less tension, while heavier rims can handle more tension. If you’re unsure, check with the manufacturer of your rim. For this exercise we’ll be tensioning our spokes to 107 kilograms force (kgf), which equals 24 on the spoke tension meter.

Measure Current Spoke Tension

Holding the tension meter horizontally, squeeze the handle and place the spoke between the posts as shown. Then release the handles. Now check the reading on the meter’s scale. You can cross reference this number with the conversion chart to see how many kilograms force your spoke has. As you can see, the tension on our spoke is far too low. Now measure all of the spokes on your wheel, one side at a time. They should all have approximately the same average tension. Due to imperfections in the hub and rim, the tension will rarely be exactly the same for all spokes. A difference of 20% between spokes is acceptable.

Spoke Tension – Front and Rear Wheels

On front wheels the tension should be equal on both sides. On rear wheels the tension will be higher on the right side, or drive side of the wheel. Therefore proper spoke tension should be measured on both sides, but set to the right side spokes of rear wheels.

Increasing Tension

To increase the tension, turn all of the spokes around the entire wheel 1/4 counter clockwise and then measure again. Repeat this step until your spoke tension is within range all the way around. Then true your wheel as explained in the video titled “How to True a Wheel“.

Related Links

Recommended Tools

Categories

Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum

Tyres keep popping off wheels...

Latest post 3 days ago

Hello guys Just bought a new pair of 700c hybrid wheelset with an inside rim width of 19mm. I have tried to fit schwalbe 700 x 40c tyres on them but the tyres just pop out from the rim when inflated. It seems to be a loose fit. Somebody please advise. Thanks...

Read more

Rear hub issue

Latest post 4 days ago

I have a 10-year-old 105 rear hub, and one of the pawls is acting up, I cleaned it and relubed the hub pawls but it still won't engage as fast as it did, like one of the pawls isn't working. I think it might be time to get a new hub. I would like one that engages faster but don't want to spend the money for something like the DT Swiss hub, what recommendations do any of you have for a hub? Or i...

Read more

I'm slowly eliminated all LBSes in my area as options for servicing, LOL. The latest one has been struck off my list after watching, pained, their approach to removing the axle end caps from a hub with cartridge bearings. Suffice to say, I finally ordered a blind bearing puller kit and a bearing press kit. If you want something done properly, you have to do it yourself! Have you bought any nic...

Read more

Modern rims crack at spoke holes

Latest post 5 days ago

Recently, I was in one of the local bike shops. Someone had brought a bike back to have the back wheel re-trued. There were actually cracks in the rim, originating from the spoke holes. I have had the same problem with my bike. In past decades you could buy a bike, and the wheels were strong. With modern rims, the aluminum is getting thinner and thinner. Now the rims crack. With heavy riders, a...

Read more

Hello guys I understand cheaper regular tyres are made with a steel wire bead. But are all folding tyres made of Kevlar bead? I have just purchased a set of tyres as per attached photo and wanted to know if the bead is Kevlar. Can anybody please help? Thanks...

Read more

I bought a Tamobyke V20. Both the front and rear tire beads slide off the rim when inflating much at all. How do I get them to sit in there where they belong? Pics attached ty!!!   IMG_3164.jpeg (Size: 61.62 KB / Downloads: 41)   IMG_3173.jpeg (Size: 46.46 KB / Downloads: 40) ...

Read more

Headset overtightening

Latest post 2 weeks ago

I have a Fondriest and could not get the headset to tighten without over tightening and then it will not steer properly because of heavy drag on the bars. I replaced the headset with no change so I replaced the steel fork with s Hylix carbon fiber bar and another new heatset and pinch steering head lock. Still it wont adjust properly. it acts as if the bottom headset bearing is too deep in the cup...

Read more

Thread busted on right pedal crank

Latest post 2 weeks ago

Hi Ive joined to specifically ask about a problem which may have been covered before Im sure. My right pedal broke so I had to replace it. Then had issues getting the new pedal to go on straight so I was riding with it slightly at a bend. But then it just came loose and fell off. Problem is now the thread seems busted and the pedal just slots in with no screwing needed because the hole is enlar...

Read more

Cup and cone hubs have long been considered simple, durable, easily maintained, and reliable. Having messed around with a couple of older hubs tonight, I ended up looking at my sealed-bearing hubs with increased fondness. I'm wondering what other people think. Should we old farts just accept that modern hubs with cartridge bearings are the way forward?...

Read more

Trek domane tyre

Latest post 4 weeks ago

Hi I have a trek domane 2.3, and I have changed the rear tyre to 28 (it was 25 originally) The tyre rubs with the brake arm (v brake), I fear it doesn’t seem to be compatible Is there any way to adjust the position of the brake arm? I just need it to ne around 2mm higher Thanks...

Read more

Falling back

Latest post 4 weeks ago

In December of 2009 I had a first generation carbon fiber fork break on my road bike and it dropped me right on my forehead. This gave me a very serious concussion and both ER doctors and most neurologists do not take them serious. So it took about two years of my slowly dying since I couldn't even remember to eat before my Cop friend took me to a proper neurologist who diagnosed it as a concussio...

Read more

Derailluer Hanger Alignment Tool

Latest post 4 weeks ago

I cannot express enough about the importance of this tool when having to deal with multi speed bicycles. I have been in the bicycle biz in one fashion or the other for over 30 years. Have sold many new bicycles and 90% have been out of wack fresh from the box. With used bikes crossing your path you should just expect it to be bad. And never string new cables without checking the hanger first, ever...

Read more

Hey guys, First post here. I've tried searching, but I don't know what you call this. I have a vintage Schwinn Passage that I picked up a few months ago. At first it worked well, but recently it's been giving me trouble. When I shift, the chain pops into the higher (larger) gear, but then sits on top of the chain ring. What ends up happening is that the chainring will keep turning, and eve...

Read more

Went to fix the slow leak on my gravel bike's rear tyre. Found the culprit: a small cut near the middle of the tyre. The good news is it gave me an excuse to order a pair of Panaracer 43c semi-slick GravelKings (most of my local rides are more road-focused) to try out. Meanwhile, I was considering ye olde vulcanised patch repair to the inside of the tyre and superglue to the outside, but I'm thi...

Read more

I shipped my Dawes Super Galaxy home and have just had an unfortunate experience of not being able to re-attach my left Shimano M324 pedal. It looks threaded, but I still have hopes as I think it's only the top couple of rings on the inside. [attachment=5341] From what I can tell the pedal thread is fine. I know there are tools out there to fix a thread. I'm hoping that mine is not so bad that...

Read more