important: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.

How to Replace a Wheel Rim

Learn how to replace a worn out wheel rim (rim transfer).

In this tutorial we will learn how to replace a worn out rim. This repair is often called a rim transfer.

What You’ll Need

For this job you will need an appropriately sized spoke wrench, a wheel truing stand, an optional nipple driver, waterproof grease and a toothpick, linseed oil, rim tape, and some tape or zip ties to fasten the rims together. You’ll also need a replacement rim. The new rim must be the exact same size and spoke count as your old rim.

Grease Spoke Holes

Using a dab of grease on a toothpick, grease all of the spoke holes on the new rim. You’ll only need a tiny bit. This helps the nipples turn easier when you’re tensioning the wheel.

De-tension Old Wheel

Next you’ll need to loosen all of the old spoke nipples. The safest way to do this is to start at the valve hole and loosen all of the spokes by turning clockwise 1/4 turn each. Repeat this step until all of the spokes in the wheel are de-tensioned but still attached.

Attach New Rim

Tape or zip-tie the new rim to the old rim in 2 places directly across from each other. Make sure that the valve hole and placement of the spoke holes in the rims match up exactly.

Transfer Spokes

One at a time, you’ll need to move each spoke from one side of the wheel over to the new rim. Turning counter-clockwise, unthread each nipple from the old rim and place a drop of linseed oil inside the nipple threads. This will keep the nipples tight while still allowing them to be turned in the future. Move the spoke over to the corresponding hole on the new rim. Thread the nipple on most of the way, but leave 2 spoke threads showing.

Once all of the spokes on the first side of the wheel are transferred, repeat the process and transfer the spokes on the other side of the wheel, until all of the spokes have been threaded onto the new rim.

True and Tension Spokes

You can now undo the tape or zip-ties and remove the old rim. Starting at the valve hole, tighten all of the nipples by turning each 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, all the way around the wheel. Repeat this until all of the spokes are fairly tight, and then tension and true the wheel. See the video titled how to true a wheel. In the next video we’ll learn how to properly tension your spokes.

Related Links

Recommended Tools

Categories

Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum

cable loose from gear handle shifter

Lastest post 13 hours ago

Hi, I'm new here. Just need some help right now for my grandson's Shocker 20 bike. The cable holder has come loose at the gripper handle and having trouble getting it back in. Any suggestions or where to get another 7 speed shifter for his bike? Thanks a lot. Sorry for not filling in any other "newbe" message, I'm currently baby sitting my other grandchild . That probably explains it all. 2...

Read more

Also if you guys know the code for the bearings and bearing size, I have a shimano 105 crank   B735B1FC-9997-4A08-9590-3B4A5798E21D.jpeg (Size: 79.89 KB / Downloads: 9) ...

Read more

I need to know what bottom bracket I have but I can fin a number or code on it to read it. Any experts in here, this is my first post.   006BA1F3-FE4D-4D22-85F0-095E72284B3D.jpeg (Size: 46.12 KB / Downloads: 12) ...

Read more

I've read other threads and lots of info online, and I'm still stuck. My son is unable to shift the gears on his new 6-gear bike. We tried adjusting the derailer to release some tension and tinkered with adjustments here and there, and nothing seems to be working. Is there anything that we can do? I really want him to be able to shift his own gears. Going uphill today we had to stop several t...

Read more

Horrendous noises when pedalling

Lastest post 22 hours ago

I have just started hearing horrendous noises when pedalling my 7 week old Trek Powerfly 4 ebike. The sound is worse than clicking and clunking and I can’t tell exactly where it is coming from. So have uploaded a video here: https://youtu.be/G3X2tLHk4Bk. Has anyone had similar or know what if could be? I’ve not heard these types of noises before....

Read more

  varsity.jpg (Size: 152.97 KB / Downloads: 66)   varsity2.jpg (Size: 77.64 KB / Downloads: 67) Hi. This is my first post. I have a 1962 Varsity that I've enjoyed riding since I was 10. I'm in my 60's now and just want to putz around the neighborhood. In order to make the bike more comfortable I put a super big seat on it and 12" high handlebars. It's my Lazy-Boy on whe...

Read more

Hello everyone. After many winter rides, my 29er MTB began to throw out creaking sounds last week. It's nothing too loud, just a gentle yet annoying creak that happens on every other stroke but not constantly. Could it simply be the case of pedals (I have clipless Shimano MTB pedals) being "tired" and not the bottom bracket? Where should I look first?...

Read more

  IMG-0104.JPG (Size: 69.13 KB / Downloads: 14) Hi I was in the process of putting upright handle bars on an old mountain bike frame.. ( help take the pinching out of my neck when i ride) I noticed a small hairline crack in the headset (i guess that is what they are called ?) I am only looking for something i can go out and ride simple flat probably paved trails.. to keep my c...

Read more

Hey guys I was recommended to post here to see if I could get any additional opinions. Would be great if you guys could help me out. Images: https://imgur.com/a/HvH98By I bought a second-hand carbon bike that looked mostly fine on inspection but when I took it apart to put in the car I noticed that the carbon around the dropouts might've been cracked? This is my first time seeing these 'enclos...

Read more

Hi... I bought 2 second hand wheels for my Gary Fisher bike.. The rear wheel came with a new 8 speed cassette marked... Shimano Hypergluide HG. After reading the spec. list of the bike it lists the chain as Shimano CN-IG51, 1/2 x 3/32" ..and the front gear chain as SR XCC-150 42/34/24 crank.. The original cassette was SRAM PG830 11-32 8spd My question ...is the new cassette OK with the original c...

Read more

  PXL_20210328_103831698.jpg (Size: 41.2 KB / Downloads: 26) Hi, I need a new seat post clamp for my canyon? These are proving difficult to get, does anyone know we're to purchase a replacement. I have attached pictures. Thanks Matt...

Read more

I adjusted my front gear according to materials I read and watched on the Internet. Hanging the bike off the ground, fd works alright and shifting was seamless. Now I take a ride, flat ground, shifting front gear was good. Downhill was also perfectly alright with changing gear. When I went uphill even on a gentle slope, gear won't upshift; downshift was alright. I am on a triple chainring. When g...

Read more

Freehub body change compatibility

Lastest post 1 month ago

I have a single speed kona unit with a formula dc52 hub (only single speed drive) and was wondering if anyone knew what freehub bodies were compatible so I can switch is to more then just a single. I would prefer not to have to buy a whole new wheel or rebuilding with a new hub. Thanks...

Read more

Hi Guys, I would appreciate some advice on choosing the right chain for a new singlespeed freewheel 16T. I have a Campagnolo crankset that is 1/8" and use Izumi chain of the same width. I'm currently on Sturmey Archer 17T 1/8" freewheel but I'd like to upgrade to 16T. All the quality 16T freewheels I found are made for 3/32" chains for example Box Buzz. Halo Clickster can supposedly accept 3/32 o...

Read more

Chain for specialized rockhopper

Lastest post 1 month ago

Hello, Ive just had my over 30 year old rockhopper serviced and its as good as new. Almost! Repair shop - where i bought it 6 years ago and have been great servicing it - say the chain is very worn and will be almost impossible to replace. Its a six speed. Would this be true? I'm not grumbling as its been a great bike but at the same time seems a shame to ditch it for want of a chain. Appreciate a...

Read more