How to Adjust Sidepull Caliper Brakes
Learn how to adjust brake pads, cable tension and centering on road-style caliper brakes.
Video updates
- 00:13 - Correction: 9 or 10mm open end wrenches.
- 00:25 - Correction: It's called a 4th Hand Tool.
- 00:31 - Watch How to Tape Drop Handlebars at about 00:30 for lever alignment tips.
- 00:52 - Remove the wheels if your pad adjustment is good and you don't want to mess with it. Otherwise you can simply remove the pads for resurfacing.
In this week’s tutorial, we’ll learn how to adjust sidepull caliper brakes, found on most road bikes. For this job, depending on your bike, you’ll need a set of 5 or 6mm allen wrenches, a set of open-end metric wrenches sized 9 or 10mm, a 14mm offset brake wrench for centering, some rough sandpaper for re-surfacing the brake pads, a light lubricant like TriFlow, and an optional 4th hand tool for adjusting the cable tension.
Lever Adjustment
First you’ll want to make sure that your brake levers are properly positioned. Check the handlebar wrapping tutorial for a more detailed procedure. It’s also a good idea to make sure your wheels are properly centered in the frame.
Many road brake systems have a quick release mechanism that loosens the brake enough so that you can remove the wheels. If not you’ll have to loosen the pinch bolt enough to give the cable some slack.
Brake Pads
Now remove your wheel and resurface the pads with your sandpaper to remove road grime. Then reinstall the wheel and check to make sure the pads are lined up with the rim. Some pads have a curved washer that allows you to set the toe-in adjustment. To avoid squealing noises while your ride, try to set the rear of the pad so there is about a 1 or 2mm gap when the front of the pad contacts the rim.
Cable Tension
To set the cable tension, first make sure your barrel adjuster is threaded all the way down. If you have a cable quick release system, make sure it is set to the tightest setting, where the brake arms are closest together. If you don’t have a quick release, you can always back off the barrel adjuster a few turns so that it can be easily loosened later.
Now set the cable tension with the cable pinch bolt. The 4th hand tool makes it easier by pulling the cable for you while you tighten the bolt. This is a personal preference, as it sets how far you’ll have to pull the lever before the brakes contact the rim. Some people prefer very responsive brakes and set them really tight, while others prefer a bit more slack. I like to have the brake contact the rim when I’ve pulled the lever about 1/4 of the way.
Pivot Adjustment
If your brake unit is really stiff or too loose, you’ll have to adjust the main center bolt. Some brakes have two nuts on the front side that turn against each other, while other systems like this one are adjusted by loosening off the back bolt, adjusting the front bolt, and then tightening it against the back bolt. The adjustment is correct when the brakes are tight but function easily.
Centering
Now check the brake centering. Both pads should contact the rim at the same time. If not, you can adjust this by loosening off the main back bolt and placing the centering wrench on the flats of the thick washer on the other side. Center the brakes with the wrench and then tighten the bolt. This sometimes takes a few tries because the brake will move a little bit while you’re tightening.
Once the brake is set up, drop a tiny bit of light oil on the pivot points. Wipe off any excess and be careful not to get any oil on the rim surface or brake pads.
Related Links
- Jim Langley: Brake Adjustment
- Park Tool: Sidepull Brake Service
- Sheldon Brown: Adjusting Sidepull Calipers
- Bicycle Torque Specifications
Related Tools
- Park Tool OBW-3 Offset Brake Wrench
- Park Tool HXS-1.2 Hex Wrench Set
- Park Tool Wrench Combo Set
- Tri-Flow Superior Lube
- Park Tool SK-3 Starter Mechanic Tool Kit
- Park Tool PK-3 Professional Tool Kit
Categories
Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum
Road bike brakes upgrades
Lastest post 5 hours agoHello everyone im looking to upgrade my brakes on a project bike that I'm doing, it currently has traditional lock bolt brake calipers can you upgrade to new style and how to do so? Kris....
Read moreHELP! Bought Schwinn bike by mail and came with rear wheel off and derailleur twisted
Lastest post 2 weeks agoI bought a Schwinn Signature Sport Hybrid 21 Speed by mail (first mistake) and it came with the rear wheel off and derailleur off with the chain twisted with 2 loops. The derailleur is inside out and I have tried everything to untwist this thing with no luck. I can't find a "master link" in the chain anywhere. Any ideas or help would be appreciated. Supposed to be a Christmas present. &n...
Read moreMethods to find punctures in an inner tube ?
Lastest post 2 weeks agoHello ) I was wondering if any of you also fill up your bathtub or a large bucket with water in order to look for a leak in a flat inner tube? That's how I do it ... other methods our there? Holiday greetings...
Read moreBrake pads and metallic pieces
Lastest post 1 month agoCiao. Is it normal to have small metallic pieces stuck within brake pads? How do they appear there? Is it from the rims and braking or did I get them from "the street"?...
Read moreBike is Creaking on the left side during the downstroke
Lastest post 1 month agoAs the title states, what feels like my pedal is creaking when Im on the downstroke on my left side. I say my pedal but based on what I have diagnosed so far I’m not sure if that’s it? I can feel the creak happening in my pedal though. I’ve looked into this and done a few preliminary things to see what could possibly be the problem. So far what I have done is: Removed the pedal, regreas...
Read moreDeep paint scratch or frame crack?
Lastest post 1 month agoHi, everyone! I'd like to ask you about your opinion on whether or not this is just a deep scratch (scuff?) on the paint or a crack on the frame of my aluminium road bike (please see photos below). For context, the area shown on the photos would be the seat tube, right about where it is joined by the seat stays. I already did the "coin soundcheck" test to help me diagnose the problem but I'm still...
Read moreGears slipping
Lastest post 2 months agoI recently changed the cassette on my MTB and ever since doing so the gears seem to be slipping when I put the power down how do any of you suggest adjusting it it changes perfectly and peddles fine until I really try to lay it down on the trials thanks in advance Alan 👍...
Read moreGravity Bike Crank
Lastest post 2 months agoHello Everyone, I have a Gravity road bike and I don't know what type of crank remover will work on my bike? There is an Allen type of bolt that I can take off fairly easily, but inside there looks to be a spline type nut. Lately every revolution of the pedals I can hear a clicking sound and it seems to be coming from inside the crank and I wanted to see if there is any lubricant in there? I ap...
Read moreDisk Brake Spacers
Lastest post 2 months agoGood morning! I purchased a new mountain bike a few weeks ago and picked up a frame adapter so I could put it on my trunk rack. The problem is that the front wheel is really low. A hitch mount is in the future but for now I figured I would just remove the wheel. My question is whether I should pick up a disk spacer or could I just use a chunk of cardboard? Not traveling all that far but don't wan...
Read moreHelp.. Rear derailleur wrong position?
Lastest post 2 months agoI've tried searching for YouTube assistance but to no avail. Cycled to the shops this morning and the gears weren't functioning, had a look and something has gone horribly wrong. It's as though the chain is suddenly inches longer than it should be and it isn't holding any tension unless the derailleur sits all the way back (image attached) almost so the chain is touching itself as it travels throu...
Read moreShimano tourney
Lastest post 2 months agoMy Apollo feud rear gear set was trashed when the bike was loaned ,the click on lock on was damaged how can I fix it please so I can be mobile again.thank you...
Read moreRemoving Front Derailleur on a 3x?
Lastest post 2 months agoI'm a newbie but I'm planning to remove the front derailleur off of my 3x8 GT Agressor Pro. Could I get some pros and cons of doing this and what I should next if I remove it? Thanks ...
Read more3speed hub problem
Lastest post 2 months agohi. i sometimes have a weird grinding sound but this only happens in shift 1 and never in 2 or 3 and most of the time it happens when after a traffic light stop. 1/9 of the time orso. but quickly goes back to the normal sound after i stop pedalling and pedal again. my question is: do you think its a planetairy gear problem inside the hub . i need a cone wrench to open the hub to look tomorow. ...
Read moreOld STX-RC 7 speed upgrade compatibility
Lastest post 2 months agoHi Folks, I hope someone on here will be able to give me a steer. I'm trying to upgrade my wifes old Marin Bear Valley SE (1995) but I'm really struggling to work out what Shimano replacement parts I need. The current spec is:- https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=32407 Crankset Shimano STX-RC, 22/32/42 teeth - ideally I'll replace the chainrings Cassette Shimano 7-speed, 11 - 2...
Read moreWeird brake hose
Lastest post 2 months agoHi I bought these SRAM force 1 brakes and they seem to be really unusual. Has anybody ever seen a hose like this? I need to shorten it to run it through the frame but I'm baffled by these hose ends. These were sold as "pre-bled", which I didn't notice until I had them. How can I shorten these hose ends? IMG-2735.jpg (Size: 54.74 KB / Downloads: 41) IMG-2736.jpg (Si...
Read more
