important: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.

How to Replace an Inner Brake Cable

Remove the old inner brake wire and install a new one.

Brake cable inner wires wear out over time. Other than obvious fraying, rust or visual wear, you can tell your cables are worn when your braking starts to feel sluggish. If lubricating the housings or brake levers doesn’t help, they’ll likely need replacing.

Tools

For this job, you’ll need a replacement brake cable inner wire. Most brake cables have a barrel end that looks like this, unless you have a road bike with drop handlebars, in which case it’ll have a cylindrical mushroom head like this. Often new brake cables will come with each type on both ends. I recommend stainless steel cables if you’re riding regularly in a wet climate, as they won’t rust. You’ll need a good set of wire cutters, some bicycle specific cable cutters if you’ll be replacing the outer cable housing, and some triflow or light lubricant. You’ll need either a 9 or 10mm metric open end wrench or a 5 or 6mm hex key for the brake’s cable pinch bolt. You’ll also need to know how to adjust your brakes and levers, as explained in previous tutorials depending on your type of brake system.

Brake Cable Removal

The first step is to carefully observe how your cable is presently routed from the lever to your brake. A misrouted cable can cause many problems. It may help to photograph each section of the cable from the lever to the brake so you can use it for reference. Your brake may not look like the one pictured here, but the concepts will be the same.

Now disconnect the cable by loosening the brake’s pinch bolt. Notice how the cable is flattened where it was pinched. I like to cut the cable just before this part so it is easier to remove by sliding through the outer cable housings. I recommend replacing the outer cable housings at the same time. See the tutorial titled “How to Replace Cable Housings”.

Brake Cable Installation

Once you have nothing but the brake lever and the cable left, line up the slots in the lever’s barrel adjuster and then pull the cable through and remove the head from the lever. Install the new cable into the lever the same way the old one came out.

Now turn your barrel adjuster clockwise almost all the way, so the barrel slots lock the new cable in place. Drop some light oil into your cable housings and make sure the outer housing’s cable ferrules are firmly in place before carefully sliding the new cable through the housing. Then route your cable the same way it was before and thread the inner cable under the pinch bolt’s washer. Pull the cable tight and tighten the pinch bolt. The cable will flatten when tightened. Always tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specifications. Adjust the brake as needed. Search the other tutorials for your specific type of brakes.

Once installed and adjusted, cut the wire about 2 inches further along the cable. Your new cable should have come with a cable end that can be gently crimped on using wire cutters or pliers. This will prevent fraying. Then give the cable a slight bend and tuck it out of the way behind the brake arm.

Related Links

Recommended Tools

Categories

Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum

Rear hub issue

Latest post 2 days ago

I have a 10-year-old 105 rear hub, and one of the pawls is acting up, I cleaned it and relubed the hub pawls but it still won't engage as fast as it did, like one of the pawls isn't working. I think it might be time to get a new hub. I would like one that engages faster but don't want to spend the money for something like the DT Swiss hub, what recommendations do any of you have for a hub? Or i...

Read more

Tyres keep popping off wheels...

Latest post 1 week ago

Hello guys Just bought a new pair of 700c hybrid wheelset with an inside rim width of 19mm. I have tried to fit schwalbe 700 x 40c tyres on them but the tyres just pop out from the rim when inflated. It seems to be a loose fit. Somebody please advise. Thanks...

Read more

I'm slowly eliminated all LBSes in my area as options for servicing, LOL. The latest one has been struck off my list after watching, pained, their approach to removing the axle end caps from a hub with cartridge bearings. Suffice to say, I finally ordered a blind bearing puller kit and a bearing press kit. If you want something done properly, you have to do it yourself! Have you bought any nic...

Read more

Modern rims crack at spoke holes

Latest post 1 week ago

Recently, I was in one of the local bike shops. Someone had brought a bike back to have the back wheel re-trued. There were actually cracks in the rim, originating from the spoke holes. I have had the same problem with my bike. In past decades you could buy a bike, and the wheels were strong. With modern rims, the aluminum is getting thinner and thinner. Now the rims crack. With heavy riders, a...

Read more

Hello guys I understand cheaper regular tyres are made with a steel wire bead. But are all folding tyres made of Kevlar bead? I have just purchased a set of tyres as per attached photo and wanted to know if the bead is Kevlar. Can anybody please help? Thanks...

Read more

Tire bead won’t seat into rim

Latest post 2 weeks ago

I bought a Tamobyke V20. Both the front and rear tire beads slide off the rim when inflating much at all. How do I get them to sit in there where they belong? Pics attached ty!!!   IMG_3164.jpeg (Size: 61.62 KB / Downloads: 42)   IMG_3173.jpeg (Size: 46.46 KB / Downloads: 41) ...

Read more

Headset overtightening

Latest post 2 weeks ago

I have a Fondriest and could not get the headset to tighten without over tightening and then it will not steer properly because of heavy drag on the bars. I replaced the headset with no change so I replaced the steel fork with s Hylix carbon fiber bar and another new heatset and pinch steering head lock. Still it wont adjust properly. it acts as if the bottom headset bearing is too deep in the cup...

Read more

Thread busted on right pedal crank

Latest post 3 weeks ago

Hi Ive joined to specifically ask about a problem which may have been covered before Im sure. My right pedal broke so I had to replace it. Then had issues getting the new pedal to go on straight so I was riding with it slightly at a bend. But then it just came loose and fell off. Problem is now the thread seems busted and the pedal just slots in with no screwing needed because the hole is enlar...

Read more

Cup and cone hubs have long been considered simple, durable, easily maintained, and reliable. Having messed around with a couple of older hubs tonight, I ended up looking at my sealed-bearing hubs with increased fondness. I'm wondering what other people think. Should we old farts just accept that modern hubs with cartridge bearings are the way forward?...

Read more

Trek domane tyre

Latest post 1 month ago

Hi I have a trek domane 2.3, and I have changed the rear tyre to 28 (it was 25 originally) The tyre rubs with the brake arm (v brake), I fear it doesn’t seem to be compatible Is there any way to adjust the position of the brake arm? I just need it to ne around 2mm higher Thanks...

Read more

Falling back

Latest post 1 month ago

In December of 2009 I had a first generation carbon fiber fork break on my road bike and it dropped me right on my forehead. This gave me a very serious concussion and both ER doctors and most neurologists do not take them serious. So it took about two years of my slowly dying since I couldn't even remember to eat before my Cop friend took me to a proper neurologist who diagnosed it as a concussio...

Read more

Derailluer Hanger Alignment Tool

Latest post 1 month ago

I cannot express enough about the importance of this tool when having to deal with multi speed bicycles. I have been in the bicycle biz in one fashion or the other for over 30 years. Have sold many new bicycles and 90% have been out of wack fresh from the box. With used bikes crossing your path you should just expect it to be bad. And never string new cables without checking the hanger first, ever...

Read more

Hey guys, First post here. I've tried searching, but I don't know what you call this. I have a vintage Schwinn Passage that I picked up a few months ago. At first it worked well, but recently it's been giving me trouble. When I shift, the chain pops into the higher (larger) gear, but then sits on top of the chain ring. What ends up happening is that the chainring will keep turning, and eve...

Read more

Went to fix the slow leak on my gravel bike's rear tyre. Found the culprit: a small cut near the middle of the tyre. The good news is it gave me an excuse to order a pair of Panaracer 43c semi-slick GravelKings (most of my local rides are more road-focused) to try out. Meanwhile, I was considering ye olde vulcanised patch repair to the inside of the tyre and superglue to the outside, but I'm thi...

Read more

I shipped my Dawes Super Galaxy home and have just had an unfortunate experience of not being able to re-attach my left Shimano M324 pedal. It looks threaded, but I still have hopes as I think it's only the top couple of rings on the inside. [attachment=5341] From what I can tell the pedal thread is fine. I know there are tools out there to fix a thread. I'm hoping that mine is not so bad that...

Read more