How to Replace a GripShift Cable
Learn how to disassemble and reassemble a twist shifter to replace the inner shift cable.
Today we’ll learn how to replace a Sram GripShift(R) style shifter cable. For this job, you’ll need a replacement shift cable and end cap, a 2.5mm allen key to open the grip shifter, a 5mm allen key or 9mm open end wrench to loosen the derailleur pinch bolt and brake levers, a cable cutter to trim the cable and pinch the cap, some light oil to lube the cable housings and a tiny bit of waterproof grease for inside the shifter.
Remove Old Cable
The first step is to remove the old cable. Shift either your front or rear derailleur to the smallest sprocket and cut the old cable cap off. Then loosen the pinch bolt and slide the inner cable out of the derailleur and cable housings.
Now loosen your brake lever and slide it along the handlebar so we have room to open the grip shifter unit. Turn the shifter to the highest gear if you’re replacing the rear cable, or the lowest gear if you’re replacing the front. You’ll notice a small allen bolt on the outside of the shifter body. Loosen this off but don’t un-thread it completely as they are really easy to lose.
Once the shifter turns freely on the handlebar, jiggle and pull the grip apart until it separates into two parts. Sometimes it helps to very gently pry it open with a flat screwdriver.
Now you’ll have to be extra careful. The first thing watch for is a tiny piece of oddly-shaped metal sitting on the inside of the shifter. It’s really important to keep that spring exactly where it is as the shifter won’t function without it. Slide the old cable out of the shifter and pay careful attention to how it was wrapped around inside the shifter. The cable usually wraps around once and sits in a little groove.
Apply a tiny dab of grease to the grooves where the cable sits inside the shifter. Slide the new cable back into the shifter, loosely wrap it around once, and then slide it through the shifter body. Now pull the cable tight and set it down into the shifter grooves the same way it came out. If it looks right, push the two parts of the shifter back together and try turning the shifter. If the cable is installed correctly it should click and turn normally. Slide your brake lever back into position and tighten it. Now turn the shifter so the cable is tucked up under the brake lever and tighten it as well.
Install New Cable
Drop a little bit of light oil into the cable housings before installing the new cable. Thread the inner cable back through the housings and the derailleur pinch bolt. Make sure your shifter is in the smallest sprocket and then pull the cable tight and tighten the bolt. Now run through the gears and adjust your front or rear derailleur as needed.
The last step is to cut the excess cable off about two inches past the pinch bolt. Then slide on the aluminum cap and just partially squish it 2 or 3 times with your cable cutter so that it stays on. This will keep the cable from fraying.
- Park Tool HXS-1.2 Hex Wrench Set
- Park Tool SD-Set Shop Screwdrivers
- Tri-Flow Superior Lube
- Park Tool WTK-2 Essential Tool Kit
- Park Tool SK-3 Starter Mechanic Tool Kit
- Park Tool PK-3 Professional Tool Kit
Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum
I just bought some spacers on amazon. Can I take these bars up higher? Right now it’s at seat height, maybe. B244096A-8E83-4716-B335-7FC45A98D0AB.jpeg (Size: 56.94 KB / Downloads: 13) ...Read more
Just out of curiosity; has anyone ever tried using those "super lubricants" in the automotive aisle (e.g. "Slick 50", etc)? Seems I remember a commercial with Al Unser Jr. (or some race car guy) draining their oil from the car and then running around the track at full speed. I am, as an experiment, going try a few drops on a "test" bike just to see how the BB and hubs feel w/o grease. I used to kn...Read more
Hi! Many apologies for my state of panic, but a friendly commenter on Reddit (/r/bikewrench specifically) suggested that I cross-post my question here to see if anyone here could help, so please forgive the rough copy-paste-edit job from my original post there. Basically... with the pandemic going on I recently got a nice custom gravel wheelset built for me using White Industries CLD hubs, which...Read more
My Apollo feud rear gear set was trashed when the bike was loaned ,the click on lock on was damaged how can I fix it please so I can be mobile again.thank you...Read more
Hello! I have a grinding sound coming from my front wheel and I can't figure it out. I took apart the hub and cleaned the ball bearings, which made the wheel spin more smoothly but the sound is still there. I have attached a link to an audio recording of the sound. The sound seems to occur at a slow and steady pace, even when i'm biking pretty fast. I have a single speed bike with rim brakes. any...Read more
Hi. I have a fairly cheepish bike, Appolo Evade Mountain Bike. (The reason for it having a freewheel was probably due to price not age). Anyways. So, there is a tiny bit of freewheel wobble which I have come across on a lot of freewheel bikes so I never considered this a problem. Freewheels just tend to get a little bent right? Despite this, shifting is just fine and smooth and the whole drive ...Read more
I have an original 2010 Trek District 1st edition. I need the rear cog 22t 9 spline replaced, I've stripped out my original one. I can not find this part anywhere and if I go to trek website or even gates, they say the part does not exist. When I contacted gates they informed me that they do not have any and that I could maybe find it through a 3rd party source. I really do not want to change it ...Read more
I'm a former racer attempting to build a business selling bike bleed kits, and I am in this class where we are working on a product/service feasibility assignment. If you're a biker or have some knowledge in the cycling industry, could help me out in taking this quick survey for a business idea of selling bleed kits for bikes, motorcycles, and other vehicles? It involves looking over a one-page ...Read more
Greetings all, Looking for a little advice on why and how to fix the Presta air valve on my Park Tools floor pump. It’s a dual presta Schrader attachment (that in not removable) on the pump and air flow simply stopped flowing into the presta despite lock being on to block Schrader flow. There has been some lead up warning as it became harder to pump and would ‘pop’ when whatever was blocki...Read more
I'm looking for a compatible thumb or bar-end shifter for a Campy 9-speed derailleur. The Jtek ShiftMate 3 looked like the perfect solution as it would allow me to use a cheap Shimano-compatible shifter, but they're only sold by SKS Cycles in the UK and I'd prefer not to ship back to the US from overseas. Does anyone know of other solutions out there (besides friction shifters)?...Read more
All, Just had my brakes replaced and repaired. I noticed that my rear v-brakes were skewed to one side. Not sure how to fix or reconfigure this. Any help is appreciated. The attachment shows the skewed v-brakes leaning to one side. rear-v-brakes.jpg (Size: 57.44 KB / Downloads: 107) Thanks....Read more
I am building my dream bike and I want to put a Chris King bottom bracket in it. It is just very hard to figure out which one is the right one. I plan on getting a Sram DUB crankset because it has the look I´m going for, with a decent price tag. I have a Cinelli Vigorell disc frame. I believe that in order to put the DUB crankset on I would need the King Threadfit 30. I don't know what the differ...Read more
Hi, I followed the park tool instruction for the front and rear derailer alignment but the Front Derailer moves to the bigger cog only when I'm not riding the bike. On the stand, it moves to the bigger cog just fine but whenever I ride it doesn't move. It shifts perfectly on the stand but seems to hit the h limit screw when sitting and actually riding (the cables are not being clamped in any way ...Read more
I've watched the Park Tool video on removing and installing a new crank. I've completed the removal/install and torqued to 45Nm (hoping this is correct for a cheap SR Suntour XCT since I can't find manufacturer guidance). I used a tiny bit of grease (but let's not go down that rabbit hole for this question). Here's where I'm starting to find conflicting info. This document on Sheldon's siteexpla...Read more
Hi! I recently got a cheapie old mountain bike. A few minor thing had to be done to it to get it into a good usable condition. The old thing thats still up with it is a slight wobble in the rear freewheel. It makes the rear gears slip a bit. I don't know much about freewheel mechanisms... is there user serviceable bearing in then or is replacing that the only option? i've uploaded a video to sh...Read more