How to Bleed Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes
Learn how to bleed the air out of Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disc brakes.
In this tutorial we’ll learn how to bleed the hydraulic brake system on Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes. You should always bleed the system after shortening or replacing the hose, or if you have opened the system to air at any time. If your brake action feels spongy, bleeding the system will also improve performance.
What You’ll Need
For this job you will need a 2, 3 and 4mm allen wrench, a 7mm open end wrench, a T15 Torx wrench, a piston holder or 10mm allen wrench in order to keep the pistons in place, a small bag and elastic band, and a clean rag. You will also need a Tektro hydraulic disc brake service kit, which should include a syringe, 2 lengths of plastic tubing, an outlet valve, and a bottle of Tektro hydraulic brake fluid (mineral oil). Make sure to use the specific type of oil for this brand, as using other types could damage your system. A repair stand and clean work space are also highly recommended.
Mount your bike in the repair stand, making sure the wheel axles are parallel with the floor. Now remove your wheel. Remove the disc brake pads and slide a piston block or 10mm allen wrench into the gap to keep the pistons in place.
Remove the rubber cover from the bleed outlet valve on the brake caliper. Attach the smaller tube from your service kit onto the syringe and fill your syringe about halfway with oil. Now firmly insert the syringe and tube onto the bleed outlet valve.
Using your 4mm allen wrench, slightly loosen the brake lever bracket until it rotates on the handlebar. Loosen and move the shifter out of the way if needed. Rotate the brake lever so that the top of the reservoir tank is parallel with the ground.
Using your T15 Torx wrench, loosen and remove the bolt on top of the reservoir tank, and thread the outlet valve into the hole, with the longer plastic tube firmly attached and place the other end into your plastic bag and keep it in place with an elastic band.
Now open the outlet valve on the caliper slightly 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Using the syringe, push and pull the oil back and forth through the system several times until there are no more air bubbles coming out of either end. Now tighten the bleed valve with your 7mm spanner to 4-6Nm.
Remove the hose and reinstall the rubber outlet valve cover. Now remove the outlet valve from the reservoir and reinstall the bolt using your T15 Torx wrench. Tighten this bolt to 2-4Nm.
Use a clean rag to wipe any excess oil off the lever, caliper, and hose. Reinstall your brake pads and front wheel. Depress the brake lever a few times, to ensure the action feels stiff and not spongy.
In our next tutorial we will take a more in-depth look at replacing and adjusting the brake pads on this model.
- Park Tool TWS-2 Fold-Up Torx Compatible Wrench Set
- Tektro Hydraulic Bleed Kit
- Park Tool HXS-1.2 Hex Wrench Set
- Park Tool Wrench Combo Set
- Tektro Auriga Comp Hydraulic Disc Brake (Front)
- Tektro Auriga Comp Hydraulic Disc Brake (Rear)
Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forums
Hi All, These are my current rims: Wheeltech TD26 by Alex Rims (can't find much info about these online). I need to replace the rear wheel as it is cracked (cracks on the rims around a few spokes) It's a 700C disc brake rim with quick releases. What do I need to consider other than the size of the wheel when choosing a replacement? I'll likely migrate over the cassette and rotor (if need be). ...Read more
shimano tourney.jpg (Size: 31.33 KB / Downloads: 11) After all these years I had never observed by commuter's chainrings and the interesting shapes they have. Do these holes and "bumps" help with the chain flow or what's the purpose?...Read more
I have a 10-year old Trek 7.3 FX with approximately 7,000 miles that is in need of a lot of repairs. I recently went to a repair shop and the mechanic thought the repairs would add up to the price of a new bike. It's true that almost everything but the frame and handle bar need to be replaced. It's also true that a large part of the repair cost comes down to the mechanic's labor. I am comfortabl...Read more
Hi All, I'm new to owning and maintaining my own bike and have been having an issue with my bike that is about 2 months old. More or less, I am stuck in the highest gear on my bike (7). I physically can't crank the twist handlebar shifter down. Did some research and troubleshooting, I physically "shifted" the derailleur itself left with my hand and was able to get the bike to shift into a lower...Read more
Hi, new here. Do not know much about maintenance, that is why I need an advice on chains. I have KMC chain on my hybrid and someone told me that I can use a bit of WD40 to keep it running, clean it from dust and whatsoever. He also is not very bright in terms of bike knowledge so I am doubting his claim. Probably WD40 is not good for lubing the chain or keeping it clean, right? There is need for s...Read more
I just received this chain tool by post. Could someone tell me what the hook is for and why the handle can move down a little bit and pull on this hook? Thanks tool.jpg (Size: 82.7 KB / Downloads: 31) ...Read more
I don't know much about bike repair, and I'm a cheapskate. I currently have two different non-usable 26" coaster brake cruisers. One, the Schwinn, has a good front wheel but the coaster brake no longer brakes. Considering the cost of the repair vs. the bike, not going to repair it. The other is a 26" La Jolla that has a bad front wheel (bearings, I think). I propose to switch out the good front ...Read more
Would there be any issues with one less tooth on the high gear as regards shifting or otherwise?...Read more
I can adjust it so that I can change from the middle ring to the small ring or middle ring to the large ring, but not so that I can change between all three. The high and low limit screws are not restricting movement of the deraileur. This only seems to be a problem since I replaced the middle ring with an oval one. If I squeezed the rails of the derailleur closer together would it help. Seems li...Read more
First, some context. I have two bikes, a 29" mountain bike (that I bought off craigslist and repaired) and a 26" cruiser bike (that I have had for about seven years now). I am 6'4" and the 29" bike fits me better, so I use it a lot more. That bike is in currently in need of repairs (the front crankset is bent, which I have no idea how that happened) and I decided to use the cruiser bike until I ...Read more
I am currently repairing an old Miyata road bike and I am in the process of removing the rust from it. 99% of the rust has come off without difficulty (it is looking pretty good at this point) but I noticed that some of the rust has eaten through the chrome. Is there a way to reapply chrome to a bike? If so, how would I go about doing that? Thanks in advance....Read more
IMG_971050.jpg (Size: 225.94 KB / Downloads: 5) IMG_971050.jpg (Size: 225.94 KB / Downloads: 5) IMG_971450.jpg (Size: 224.98 KB / Downloads: 4) A co-worker gave me an older Trek mountain bike for my twelve-year-old to use to ride to and from school. Since this will be his first time riding a bike to and from school, I didn't want to invest hundreds of ...Read more
Hi. I picked up a used older trek 3500 to convert to an ebike. I thought it had holes to mount disc brakes in the back, but when I went to put on the adapter, I found that it didn't fit. The holes are only 45 mm apart instead of the is standard 51 mm. Are these an older version before it was standardized to 51 mm? Something else? If they are an older version of disc mounts, anyone know where i can...Read more
Hi guys, have been surfing through the forum for repair tips and answers in the past, but never posted. Good, useful information here My 29" MTB has bent rear disc brake rotor, is Shimano 160 milimeters. It's a very slight bent, yet it really annoyz me during training rides (I'm getting ready for my very first 100km+ marathon, still a novice) and is touching the brake pads, makes bad sounds. Any ...Read more
Don't know if I have missed a discussion on this, but I have been looking at the frames made in China and most of the reviews have been good. A carbon frame and fork for $300 seems too good to be true. Does anyone know anything about the various frames on e-bay of different values ($300 - 500) and what is different about each of them. They all come in carbon black - does anyone have ...Read more