important: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.

How to Bleed Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes

Learn how to bleed the air out of Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disc brakes.

In this tutorial we’ll learn how to bleed the hydraulic brake system on Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes. You should always bleed the system after shortening or replacing the hose, or if you have opened the system to air at any time. If your brake action feels spongy, bleeding the system will also improve performance.

What You’ll Need

For this job you will need a 2, 3 and 4mm allen wrench, a 7mm open end wrench, a T15 Torx wrench, a piston holder or 10mm allen wrench in order to keep the pistons in place, a small bag and elastic band, and a clean rag. You will also need a Tektro hydraulic disc brake service kit, which should include a syringe, 2 lengths of plastic tubing, an outlet valve, and a bottle of Tektro hydraulic brake fluid (mineral oil). Make sure to use the specific type of oil for this brand, as using other types could damage your system. A repair stand and clean work space are also highly recommended.

Mount your bike in the repair stand, making sure the wheel axles are parallel with the floor. Now remove your wheel. Remove the disc brake pads and slide a piston block or 10mm allen wrench into the gap to keep the pistons in place.

Remove the rubber cover from the bleed outlet valve on the brake caliper. Attach the smaller tube from your service kit onto the syringe and fill your syringe about halfway with oil. Now firmly insert the syringe and tube onto the bleed outlet valve.

Using your 4mm allen wrench, slightly loosen the brake lever bracket until it rotates on the handlebar. Loosen and move the shifter out of the way if needed. Rotate the brake lever so that the top of the reservoir tank is parallel with the ground.

Using your T15 Torx wrench, loosen and remove the bolt on top of the reservoir tank, and thread the outlet valve into the hole, with the longer plastic tube firmly attached and place the other end into your plastic bag and keep it in place with an elastic band.

Now open the outlet valve on the caliper slightly 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Using the syringe, push and pull the oil back and forth through the system several times until there are no more air bubbles coming out of either end. Now tighten the bleed valve with your 7mm spanner to 4-6Nm.

Remove the hose and reinstall the rubber outlet valve cover. Now remove the outlet valve from the reservoir and reinstall the bolt using your T15 Torx wrench. Tighten this bolt to 2-4Nm.

Use a clean rag to wipe any excess oil off the lever, caliper, and hose. Reinstall your brake pads and front wheel. Depress the brake lever a few times, to ensure the action feels stiff and not spongy.

In our next tutorial we will take a more in-depth look at replacing and adjusting the brake pads on this model.

Related Links

Recommended Tools

Categories

Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum

Hello, cycling lovers! A couple of days ago I had a lesson of riding in a group, which ended with crashed bike =) Fell to the side, so the main impact was absorbed by my shoulder and hand, so I believe no major damage was caused by this crash except some paint removal. So I'm thinking about what to do with stripped carbon on the front fork - to me it seems that only paint is damaged and I'm thin...

Read more

It happens only when I’m pushing a big gear up a slight gradient in the saddle. My first thought was the BB needed to be replaced but I took it to the shop and they said it was fine. They thought they fixed the problem with adjusting the b limit but it only helped it maybe a little. It didn’t solve the issue. Would there be any other causes? I have Shimano GRX 810. Happens when the clutch is ...

Read more

Water in tube.

Lastest post 9 hours ago

I'm fixing up my wife's old bike to sell and when I pulled the tube on the front tire it had water in it. Haven't seen that before. What would cause that and is it a problem I need to take care of? Thanks. John...

Read more

So as some who rides and maintains bikes from the 1960s to through the 2000s, I find disturbing that there are some many problems with modern shifting mechanisms on low to midrange bikes. I have an engineering background and it seems that basis quality in function and durability has gone by the wayside in this department. Is just a cost issue? I would be embarrassed as a manufacturer if I had the ...

Read more

Hey all, My CX/Gravel bike came with a Shimano GRX-810 (1x) drivetrain. The derailleur has a 34T max cog and, living in a flatter area, it's more than fine but I'm planning on getting in some climbing-heavy gravel rides later this year so was looking to get something that can take more teeth in the rear. A little digging around has identified the XTR-M9000GS, another 11-speed RD, as a viable opti...

Read more

Looking for ideas and opinions on this crack in my steerer tube. It seems pretty small and only on the outside surface, and the carbon is rather thick too. I have enough room to potentially slam the stem by cutting the area off, or I could try using a metal tube insert to brace the area. Or is it small enough to ignore for now? What do you think   20210723_211713.jpg (Size: 19.97 KB / ...

Read more

change gears on my giant trooper

Lastest post 2 days ago

Hey, I got a giant trooper, with the gear ( Sram Twist Grip Rotary Handle DualDrive ) and cable broken and not working, do you guys know if its hard to change it myself? I live in amsterdam and in a shop is too expensive to replace the gears. Any thoughts about this? Where i can buy those type of gears? it is possible to change only the gears part that got the numbers? When i change gears on ge...

Read more

Shifter repair

Lastest post 3 days ago

So my front derailleur shifter is not going in 3 Everytime I push it for a slight moment the chain stands on the 3rd gear.And when I stop pushing it goes back to 2.The last pic is when I pushed the shifter to 3.And the shifter is very hard to push   IMG_20210724_201313.jpg (Size: 63.04 KB / Downloads: 22)   IMG_20210724_201418.jpg (Size: 64.34 KB / Downloads: 24)  ...

Read more

Purchased this last week and went to pull the crank off today. What I found is that the threaded hollow on the non-drive side is too shallow to fit both the bullet and the threaded extractor nut. With the improvisation, I was still able to remove the non-drive by using a small, thick washer. Certainly not recommended though. I believe I saw Shimano makes their own crank puller for Octalink, so tha...

Read more

Removing pedals with allen key

Lastest post 3 days ago

Hi, I am trying to pack my bike for travel and cannot get my pedals off. I know that the left side pedal is reverse threaded etc so am pretty sure I am trying to loosen them the correct way on each side. But both pedals are stuck fast and I dare not force it in case I crack the crank. Any good way of loosening pedals which are screwed on too tight?...

Read more

Hi, Pardon me if this is not the right place to post the below question. My bicycle gear was not shifting properly so I decided to fix it after watching several youtube videos. Several videos advised that the gear should be shifted to the highest speed (i.e. smallest cog) before doing any tuning i.e. adjusting the High/Low limit screws or adjusting the cable adjustment barrel of the derailleur. ...

Read more

So, before I explain the issue, a bit of background. I took my bike to college, but ended up not riding it much, so it sat outside for the majority of the academic year, chained to a bike rack. Because of that, many of the screws and gears and such have rust on them (I know, I'm an idiot for leaving it outside and probably ruined it, but I'm trying to fix what I can). The bike is still ride-able ...

Read more

Crank Puller Failing to Pull Crank

Lastest post 1 week ago

Hello there, I have been trying to remove the cranks from an old bicycle frame. I use a crank puller (with an attached arm) according to the tutorial on this site—turning the external threading clockwise into the crank, then turning the inner bolt of the puller equally clockwise against the spindle inside the crank in order to force it off. Nevertheless, the crank will stick in place. I have tr...

Read more

Just wondering about the possibility of upgrading only the front brake of an Apex 1 mechanical grupo to hydraulic. I figure the front brake does way more and it would save a ton of $$. What I'm wondering about is if the left hydraulic brake lever/hood would have a different shape compared to the mechanical brake right shifter. Anyone know exactly how different they are and if it would f...

Read more

Hi, everyone, My 6¾-year-old son was due for a new bike. Without consulting, his grandfather bought him one from a box store. My son loves it. Honestly, it's mostly an OK bike from what I can tell (with all the caveats about serviceability, etc., that come with a cheap bike). However, the brakes are dangerously bad. From running speed, the stopping distance is on the order of 40 feet (12 m) (my ...

Read more