important: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.

How to Replace Your Chainrings

Basic removal and installation instructions for 5-bolt chainrings on 3-sprocket systems.

This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install chainrings. Since there are so many different crank and chainring sizing combinations, I’ll stick to the basics and give a general overview of the process based on a 5-bolt, 3-chainring system.

For this job, you’ll typically need a 5mm allen key, a chainring nut wrench, and some waterproof grease. On some bikes, you may find it easier to remove the right crank arm before you begin.

Chainring Removal

Before removing the largest two chainrings you’ll often have to remove the smallest one, which is often threaded directly into your crank arm. Use your allen key to loosen all of the bolts that hold the chainring in place, and then use a marker to make a note of the chainring’s position in relation to the crank before removing it completely. Some chainrings have a bump sticking out that should be lined up with your crank arm.

The largest two rings are usually bolted to each other with a nut and bolt. Here you’ll need to hold the nut in place with the special chainring wrench while you loosen the bolt with your allen key. Once again it’s a good idea to mark the chainring’s position in relation to your crank arm. The two largest outer rings often have a few spacers or washers in between, so be sure to note exactly how they came apart so they can be reinstalled correctly.

While it’s ok to install a new chainring that has a different number of teeth, you’ll want to make sure that your new chainrings have the same side profile as the old ones.

Chainring Installation

Before you reinstall the bolts, apply a thin layer of grease to the threads to keep out moisture. Now you can reassemble all of your chainrings the same way they came apart.

Make sure all of the bolts are finger tight and then begin tightening them evenly in a star pattern. Start by tightening the first bolt, and then every second bolt until you’ve gone all the way around. Repeat this process until all of the bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten. Park Tools recommends 44-88 inch pounds of torque for aluminum bolts, and 70-95 inch pounds for steel bolts.

Related Links

Recommended Tools

Categories

Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum

Catastrophic bicycle failures

Latest post 7 hours ago

As some of you know, I bought a new bicycle that failed catastrophically within 3 days.. ​The gears were slipping and skipping right from day zero. It’s a 3 x 8 setup, and the shop mechanic claimed the manufacturer had mistakenly installed a 7-speed rear derailleur instead of an 8-speed. Whether that's true or not, he eventually swapped it out for a new 8-speed derailleur after my complaints....

Read more

My sensation crossroads cruz needs a rear derailleur. I need to verify which shimano part and shifter will work. Thanks Bob...

Read more

A question I've wanted to ask for a while now. From a personal point of view, what have you found to be the positives and negatives of these two valves? What would your preference be?...

Read more

Hello. I'm a beginner and I want to know how to clean a bike properly, do diagnostics test to make sure the group set is proper. And make sure my bike is pristine before and after every ride. Bonus question, do you have any videos on foxter mtb 29ers on how to disassemble and reassemble parts of the bike?...

Read more

I have a Bontrager Race wheel with sealed bearings. While I have a lot of experience with wheels that have loose bearings, I don't have much with wheels that have sealed bearings. So here is my question; how do I get the axle out and the freehub off? Once the axle nuts were off, unlike a wheel with loose bearings, the axle itself still feels rigidly in place. I've watched some youtube videos ...

Read more

Shimano RevoShift upgrade

Latest post 1 month ago

Hello. I bought a 2003 Raleigh SC40 recently. It is in very good shape but does show its age in areas. One is the 3x8 Shimano RevoShift twist shifters. They work just fine but are cosmetically challenged. The right rear shifter plastic cover has broken. I am inclined to replace both with new Shimano twist shifters. Hoping for suggestions, recommendations and cautions. Thanks for the help. ...

Read more

I have a bike in with an unresponsive transmission derailleur. Customer said it was hit with a stick that went into the spokes. There's no obvious damage other than wear and tear scuff marks. The battery is good and tested with the dropper. The shifter is good and working. The button on the derailleur does nothing. Single click, double clicking and holding the button. no response, no servo buzz,...

Read more

Specialized bicycle post issue

Latest post 2 months ago

Hi folks - this is my first post! The seat post on my year old Roll 3.0 is doing something annoying. It has a bit of play around the shiny collar just above the post clamp (see photo). I was told there is a plastic sheathing inside. Can this be fixed or is the seat post all one assembly?   IMG_3153.jpeg (Size: 58.61 KB / Downloads: 728) ...

Read more

Philodo H8 5000W

Latest post 2 months ago

Have a out 300 miles on a Philodo H8 5000W. A couple of times, after turning it on, it flashed "12" for a few seconds. Anyone have a clue?...

Read more

My friend is having this issue where the axle keeps slipping in the rear dropouts and hit the chain stay on the non-drive side.   IMG-20260418-WA0021.jpg (Size: 82.12 KB / Downloads: 88) This usually happens when a lot of force (climbing on a high gear or standing to sprint) is applied. It’s worse when the bicycle is loaded up with camping gear on the rear rack. Things tried th...

Read more

Hey all, I'd love some feedback on a repair issue. I just got the brakes bled and the first ride after was fine. But after one week of sitting idle, I took it out and the rear brake was suddenly making a horrible loud screeching noise when applied. Took it back to the shop and the mechanic showed how the two halves of the brake were not perfectly aligned and holding firm and there was oil leakage....

Read more

70's=80's Free Spirit Blaze MTN

Latest post 3 months ago

70's-80's Free Spirit Blaze MTN   2.JPG (Size: 21.86 KB / Downloads: 17)   3.JPG (Size: 33.89 KB / Downloads: 18)   DSCN3722.JPG (Size: 32.65 KB / Downloads: 18)   4.JPG (Size: 56.63 KB / Downloads: 18) I need a front index shift lever or the matched set. Falcon derailleur, 10 speed or whatever is compatible. 7.3mm is the closet spacing measure...

Read more

Front Disc brake(Shimano) makes dreadful noise/vibration just at the ‘bite’ point where it stop the wheel (final 2 or 3 cms of rotation on the rotor ! Only started a month ago No luck in sorting it ! .. have had pads, rotor and caliper all replaced and it makes very little difference (all are clean, aligned and functioning as they should) Absolutely no problem on the rear. Don’t know wh...

Read more

So I bought this second hand rad rover five power bike it worked for the whole day and the end of the day I thought it died on me but it hasn't been able to start back up please contact me if you think you could help I've done some research and I have no idea what I'm doing I just need some help somebody knows what they're doing to guide me with this please I spent all my money on this I don't hav...

Read more

Need help with Drivetrain Update

Latest post 5 months ago

Hello everyone, I'm an older lifelong cyclist that recently had my beloved old yeti mountain bike stolen, and to try and fill that void, I picked up a 2015 Specialized Crosstrail (I'm riding more paved and gravel trails these days, my full-on mountain bike days are over!). The bike was in very good physical condition, apparently very lightly used. I was unable to ride before purchase, but it looke...

Read more