important: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.

How to Replace Cotterless Crank Arms

Crank removal and installation procedure on a square-spindle, sealed bottom bracket.

Video updates

  • 02:08 - The crank bolts should be torqued to about 35 foot-pounds, or 420 inch-pounds.

This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install square-spindled crank arms. I’ve based this tutorial on cranks attached to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. I’ll cover the loose-bearing style in a future tutorial.

Tools Required

To remove the bolt, you’ll need either an 8mm allen key or 14mm socket wrench. To remove the crank arms, you’ll need a crank puller, a 16mm open-end wrench, and an adjustable wrench. If possible, a torque wrench should also be used for tightening.

Crank Arm Removal

In order to safely remove the right side, you’ll have to shift the front derailleur onto the smallest chainring, and then carefully remove the chain and rest it on the bottom bracket, so that it doesn’t interfere with the crank arm removal.

Using the crank arm for leverage, loosen and remove the tightening bolt with your allen key or 14mm socket wrench. Be careful not to skin your knuckles on the chainring teeth.

Before using the crank puller, make sure it is fully extended so that the internal driver does not extend past the external threads.

Note: If crank threads are damaged, there are a few solutions at Park Tools.

Carefully thread the external threads of the crank puller clockwise into the crank arm. Avoid cross-threading, which will damage the crank and prevent future removal.

Once the crank puller is fully threaded, place the adjustable wrench on the external flats and turn the internal driver clockwise until it stops. Turn the driver clockwise using a 16mm wrench, until the crank arm pulls free of the spindle. Repeat the same process to remove the left crank arm.

Crank Arm Installation

Before re-installing the cranks wipe both the square spindle and the crank’s spindle fitting to make sure there is no dirt or grease on either surface.

Now slide the right crank’s spindle fitting onto the spindle. Before installing the bolts, grease under the head and along the threads of both bolts. Thread the bolt all the way into the spindle threads and torque the bolt to about 35 foot-pounds, or 420 inch-pounds.

Set the chain back on the chainring and repeat the same installation procedure on the left side, making sure the crank arm is pointing opposite the right side.

Related Links

Recommended Tools

Categories

Discuss this topic in the Bicycle Repairs and Mechanics Forum

Rear hub issue

Latest post 3 hours ago

I have a 10-year-old 105 rear hub, and one of the pawls is acting up, I cleaned it and relubed the hub pawls but it still won't engage as fast as it did, like one of the pawls isn't working. I think it might be time to get a new hub. I would like one that engages faster but don't want to spend the money for something like the DT Swiss hub, what recommendations do any of you have for a hub? Or i...

Read more

Tyres keep popping off wheels...

Latest post 2 hours ago

Hello guys Just bought a new pair of 700c hybrid wheelset with an inside rim width of 19mm. I have tried to fit schwalbe 700 x 40c tyres on them but the tyres just pop out from the rim when inflated. It seems to be a loose fit. Somebody please advise. Thanks...

Read more

I'm slowly eliminated all LBSes in my area as options for servicing, LOL. The latest one has been struck off my list after watching, pained, their approach to removing the axle end caps from a hub with cartridge bearings. Suffice to say, I finally ordered a blind bearing puller kit and a bearing press kit. If you want something done properly, you have to do it yourself! Have you bought any nic...

Read more

Recently, I was in one of the local bike shops. Someone had brought a bike back to have the back wheel re-trued. There were actually cracks in the rim, originating from the spoke holes. I have had the same problem with my bike. In past decades you could buy a bike, and the wheels were strong. With modern rims, the aluminum is getting thinner and thinner. Now the rims crack. With heavy riders, a...

Read more

Hello guys I understand cheaper regular tyres are made with a steel wire bead. But are all folding tyres made of Kevlar bead? I have just purchased a set of tyres as per attached photo and wanted to know if the bead is Kevlar. Can anybody please help? Thanks...

Read more

I bought a Tamobyke V20. Both the front and rear tire beads slide off the rim when inflating much at all. How do I get them to sit in there where they belong? Pics attached ty!!!   IMG_3164.jpeg (Size: 61.62 KB / Downloads: 40)   IMG_3173.jpeg (Size: 46.46 KB / Downloads: 39) ...

Read more

Headset overtightening

Latest post 1 week ago

I have a Fondriest and could not get the headset to tighten without over tightening and then it will not steer properly because of heavy drag on the bars. I replaced the headset with no change so I replaced the steel fork with s Hylix carbon fiber bar and another new heatset and pinch steering head lock. Still it wont adjust properly. it acts as if the bottom headset bearing is too deep in the cup...

Read more

Thread busted on right pedal crank

Latest post 2 weeks ago

Hi Ive joined to specifically ask about a problem which may have been covered before Im sure. My right pedal broke so I had to replace it. Then had issues getting the new pedal to go on straight so I was riding with it slightly at a bend. But then it just came loose and fell off. Problem is now the thread seems busted and the pedal just slots in with no screwing needed because the hole is enlar...

Read more

Cup and cone hubs have long been considered simple, durable, easily maintained, and reliable. Having messed around with a couple of older hubs tonight, I ended up looking at my sealed-bearing hubs with increased fondness. I'm wondering what other people think. Should we old farts just accept that modern hubs with cartridge bearings are the way forward?...

Read more

Trek domane tyre

Latest post 3 weeks ago

Hi I have a trek domane 2.3, and I have changed the rear tyre to 28 (it was 25 originally) The tyre rubs with the brake arm (v brake), I fear it doesn’t seem to be compatible Is there any way to adjust the position of the brake arm? I just need it to ne around 2mm higher Thanks...

Read more

Falling back

Latest post 3 weeks ago

In December of 2009 I had a first generation carbon fiber fork break on my road bike and it dropped me right on my forehead. This gave me a very serious concussion and both ER doctors and most neurologists do not take them serious. So it took about two years of my slowly dying since I couldn't even remember to eat before my Cop friend took me to a proper neurologist who diagnosed it as a concussio...

Read more

Derailluer Hanger Alignment Tool

Latest post 3 weeks ago

I cannot express enough about the importance of this tool when having to deal with multi speed bicycles. I have been in the bicycle biz in one fashion or the other for over 30 years. Have sold many new bicycles and 90% have been out of wack fresh from the box. With used bikes crossing your path you should just expect it to be bad. And never string new cables without checking the hanger first, ever...

Read more

Hey guys, First post here. I've tried searching, but I don't know what you call this. I have a vintage Schwinn Passage that I picked up a few months ago. At first it worked well, but recently it's been giving me trouble. When I shift, the chain pops into the higher (larger) gear, but then sits on top of the chain ring. What ends up happening is that the chainring will keep turning, and eve...

Read more

Went to fix the slow leak on my gravel bike's rear tyre. Found the culprit: a small cut near the middle of the tyre. The good news is it gave me an excuse to order a pair of Panaracer 43c semi-slick GravelKings (most of my local rides are more road-focused) to try out. Meanwhile, I was considering ye olde vulcanised patch repair to the inside of the tyre and superglue to the outside, but I'm thi...

Read more

I shipped my Dawes Super Galaxy home and have just had an unfortunate experience of not being able to re-attach my left Shimano M324 pedal. It looks threaded, but I still have hopes as I think it's only the top couple of rings on the inside. [attachment=5341] From what I can tell the pedal thread is fine. I know there are tools out there to fix a thread. I'm hoping that mine is not so bad that...

Read more